AquaZone Statistics

Last updated: 12/09/99


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Fish	Days to Maturity	Hatching Time	Old Age	Notes
Clown Loach	75	4	1286	I use a very large aquarium, 200 liters or more. They frequently mate but don't produce offspring. I use pH around 7.0. Supposedly they breed better with many low lying plants, but I haven't confirmed this yet. They seem to do better in groups of 8 or more. They don't seem to eat their young if kept well fed. I can get them to breed just about every day if I do the following: speed 100x, start with pristine tank, 79.7 degrees, slightly over feed them, after 12 hours take them out and replace all the water, clean filter, wait for the chlorine to subside and put them back in. Fry can hatch in the tank with the parents.
Angelfish	180	3	1400-1500	Acceleration at 100x works well with Angels. Get them up to full health and watch for mating pairs. After mating, remove other fish and wait a few hours or days until they breed. Remove eggs. Takes a couple weeks at 100x before they will breed again.
Catfish	70-76	?	?	-
Red-Tailed Shark	85-130	3-4	1950-2000	They seem to die easily from fighting each other, particularly the adults. I usually keep sharks alone in their own tank and condition them until their health reaches 100%. Then I put all these sharks into a file I call HealthySharks and use these for breeding. I put all the conditioned sharks (12 or more) together briefly until a pair mates. This usually happens within an hour, sometimes just a few minutes if the adults are well conditioned. I notice frequently, that the same male will mate with several females over a span of an hour or two. Don't keep them together for too long, or their health will drop rapidly due to fighting.
Neons	120	2	?	Very easy to breed. They seem to spawn on a regular basis.
Platy	?	~20 (gestation)	?	I try to get the hardness up between 7 and 8.
Molly	?	~30 (gestation)	?	I try to get the hardness up between 7 and 8.
Rummy-Nose Tetra	110	?	797	Highly sensitive to water conditions. Removing eggs for hatching probably not a good idea. I usually drop about 300 ml of water conditioner into a 64 l tank for breeding.
Phantom Tetra	135	2	746	Highly sensitive to water conditions. Removing eggs for hatching probably not a good idea. Will eat their eggs if hungry. I usually drop about 300 ml of water conditioner into a 64 l tank for breeding. This brings the water hardness down to 3.85. Quick way of breeding them: separate 4 males and 4 females in two separate 100x tanks overnight (8 real hours) - equivalent to 30 days of conditioning. Make sure they are fed fully before removing. Then put them together in one fresh dechlorinated tank at 10x. They should start mating within an hour or so. You should get eggs within 8 real hours, sometimes within a few minutes. If you get eggs remove parents and hatch the young at 10x or preferably less.
Giga-Ziga	?	?	200	These are hardy, fast growing, short-lived live-bearers. They usually die of rust due to old-age.

Notes:

I don't usually use de-chlorinzation medication. It seems to increase the ammonia content of the water if you put too much in. I usually naturally condition the water but letting the chlorine subside before puting the fish into a new tank. When I change water, I don't change more than one fourth of the water, usually the small amount of chlorine has no ill effect. Running an empty tank at 100x will reduce the chlorine pretty quickly.
Fish should have health in the high 80s or 90s to breed. This can be done by feeding them every 8 hours.
I simply put all the newly born fish into one tank with aquarium speed of 0. This way I don't have to deal with a lot of separate files. If I need to reinstall AquaZone for any reason, I simply copy this azn file to the directory and I retain all of these fish. If I don't want to deal with a given tank for any reason, I set the aquarium speed to 0 until I can deal with it again.
Deinstalling requires running the uninstall program and then deleting the AquaZone.bin file from the windows directory. This way AZ loses its memory of previous tanks and fish.
Until a Acidity Plus medication comes along, one way of reducing the pH of a tank is to create an empty tank (no fish) running at 100x speed, lots of plants and keep the light on continually. Eventually all the CO2 will disappear and the tank will drop to an acidity of about 6.3. Plants consume CO2 during the day, apparently, and there are no fish to increase it.
Eggs seem to hatch in larger numbers with a very clean tank than a dirty one. Does not seem to be effected too much if the eggs are saved to a file first then transferred to another tank (the exception seems to be Rummy Nose Tetras and Phantom Tetras where removing eggs to another tanks seems to fatal many times). Cleanliness seems to be a factor.
Medication of fish is sometimes a tricky business, knowing the right amount and what kind of medication that is effective. The recommended dosage gives you a range of dose and time intervals. If you use the maximum dose, use the smallest interval of treatment, if you use the minimum dose, use the maximum interval of treatment. For example, if they say use 20-40 ml per 10 l of water 2-4 times daily, then give 40 ml twice daily or 20 ml 4 times daily, so that the total amount per day is the same. Otherwise the fish may die of overdose. Frequently, the fish get a relapse, so it is a good idea to continue the treatment even after it appears to be healed.

The following table shows some conditions fish bred in.

Fish	Temp	pH	GH	Tank Size (liters)	HNO3	NH3	Filter	No. of Eggs/Hatch
Mollies	72.3	7.35	7.6-8.1	65.4	-	-
Clown Loaches	79.7	7.0	4.0	235	-	-
Neons	79.7	6.945	4.0	65.4	-	-
Giga-Ziga	79.7	7.7	6.4	235	11	4.5
Phantom Tetra	79.7	6.959	3.879	65.4	0	0.427	9.1%	23	1
Rummy Nose Tetra	79.7	6.958	3.909	65.4	0	0.189	52.3%

Red-tail sharks are a bit trickier, so I have a table just for them:

Red-Tailed Sharks Breeding Stats

Tank Size	2000x768 (238 l) Brand new, clean, conditioned tank (no medication, chlorine naturally dissipated)
Temp	78
pH	7.0
GH	4.0
O	8.1
CO2	14.9
HNO3	0
NH3	0
CL	0
Mg	10
Ca	42
Filter	0% dirty (no fat, carbos, protein or vitamins in tank)
Notes	Placed 3 fish into the tank and two started mating immediately. The eggs were laid within a couple of minutes at 100x. Immediately after breeding the health of the male started dropping (3 points) and the female started rising (1 point). Only sparsely planted (15 or 20), with the same plant, Aponogeton. Two accessories, bogwood and Indus.
Pecking Order	Sharks seem to have a definite pecking order. The older, and larger ones effect the health of the younger ones, and you will see a definite drop in health of the younger ones if you have several in the tank together. They should be conditioned separately before putting them into a breeding tank. After they breed, they will fight, diminshing the health of the younger one. I separate them immediately. Use a very large (2000x768) tank with lots of plants for hiding.
Speed	100x
AutoFeeder	2 spoons/6 hours
AutoLight	12 hours On/12 hours Off
Days to Hatch	3-4
Hatching Conditions	Removed parents, then saved eggs to a file (to be hatched after a reinstall). Then placed the eggs back into the same tank.
Number of Eggs	43
Number of Hatched Fry	5 (although not confirmed, a clean tank may contribute to larger number of hatched fry)
	Age	Health	Vigor	Courage	Power	Name
Male	1598	71	73	56	57	Cory
Female	1867	83	81	34	43	Kelsey

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